Our floating home

There is a universal code for identifying river rats: dock shoes, tan lines, Oakleys, the last surviving species of the relic “koozie”, and of course…the Labrador Retriever.

Deeg, my Labrador/Golden mix was meant to be the “perfect” dock dog. At only a few months of age, he would approach the water with such enthusiasm, he would practically hyperventilate at the sight of a puddle. So when we moved onto the river, we thought, “how perfect for Deeg.”

Deeg was part of our "river rat" pack long before our floating home days

Hmmm…perfect alright. In case you were wondering: DOG that loves water PLUS living on WATER, EQUALS the following lessons learned:

• Carpets are not sponges, though that’s what ours felt like.
• Leash plus lounge chairs means unanticipated afternoon dip.
• Toys that sink to the bottom of the river are considered unretrievable by humans, but not dogs.
• No scented candle can cover up the yearlong smell of wet dog.
• Swimming in deep waters with water-loving dog means he will swim to exhaustion and then practically drown you trying to get you to hold him up while he rests.
• Labradors will not exit the water no matter if they’re practically drowning from exhaustion.
• Wet dog hair is difficult to clean off docks.
• Tying a dog to the dock does not keep them out of the water.  It merely limits the distance in which they can practice their dog paddle.
• There is no “season” for dog swimming.  In the dead of winter, with waters of 40 degrees, Deeg would launch himself into the Columbia if ever the door was open (see next point).
• If door was not left open, Deeg would beg at the door–even at 10pm at night–hoping you will eventually exhaust from his pleads and let him out for a swim.
• And finally, where exactly does a dog use the bathroom when there is no yard?  Every bathroom break involves the 1/4 mile hike down the docks, steep climb up the ramp (on leash, so he doesn’t take a spontaneous swim on the way up), across the 50-mile an hour highway, to the grassy “patch” by the parking lot.  Deeg would often aim for something closer, usually the nicest, currently-occupied boat on the dock.

I don’t mean to make it sound all bad.  The fact of the matter is, having a water-loving dog has many advantages for a river rat.  Who else would swim alongside my kayak at 6am on a sunny morn?  Or whimper with excitement at the carp I caught that afternoon?  Deeg is an amazing companion, and one of my best friends.

Because of my unique experience of being surrounded by water 24/7/365, I offer some tips for fellow river rats and their water hounds.  These are things I found useful not only on the floating home, but on week-long houseboat trips, overnight float trips, beach outings–any water adventure with Deeg.

1.  Invest in a lifejacket for your dog.  Yes, Deeg can swim.  But there were things that affected his swim ability that I didn’t anticipate: currents, exhaustion, and shockingly cold water.  Make sure to get one that fits your dog properly so that their swim performance is enhanced, not hindered.  After a web search, I found the Ruff Wear Float Coat, and Deeg has been using it ever since.

Before working at Ruff Wear, I didn't even know such things existed. We tried outfitting Deeg in a kid's lifejacket, but after three days, he had so many hot spots he could barely move.

Lifejackets also provide visibility in high traffic boat areas, and are a huge help in assisting dogs up onto the docks.

Deeg's float coat is so comfortable, he actually panics with excitement when he sees his come out.

2.  The correct order for boat adventures is as follows: Leave dog in car/house, load the boat, load the passengers, let dog out, dog jumps into boat. Otherwise, you will have the dog follow each passenger into the boat, causing chaos and tripping hazard.

3.  Boots will save the boat upholstery from nails.  Also, never attempt a raft trip without dog boots, and always come prepared with patch repair kits.

4.  Leashes and water can be a hazard.  A dog like Deeg will likely drag you down the dock and into the water via the leash.  Tying your dog up is also a hazard to you and your dog. The best option is always training your dog under voice command.  Deeg, who is otherwise mildly-trained, becomes insane when water is nearby.  We had some luck training him using treats (he’s very food motivated), but more often relied on the handle of the lifejacket to keep him out of the water.

I found the handle useful to not only help Deeg out of the water, but to grab a hold of him when he decides to take a spontaneous swim.

5.  Get your dog used to distractions.  Ducks, kids, and other dogs will send your dog flying into the water.  The best tactic is exposure and a calm voice. Oh, and a bag of treats to help distract.

You can never tell when a dog like Deeg will just charge into the water...day or night...summer or winter.

6.  Give your dog a designated spot.  A waterproof bed on the dock or boat somewhere gives your dog a place to retreat and prevents him from moving about and potentially tripping someone, getting caught in fish line, or knocking something in the water.

Give your dog a place to retreat. I highly recommend the Flophouse™ Foam Pad because it's easy to clean and quick to dry.

7.  Water toys not only need to float, but need to be extremely visible in the water.  Shapes and colors that are hard to see will become lost at sea.

The Hydro Plane™ is large and floats high, making it easy to spot. RIP to the many toys we have lost along the way.

8.  If you frequent a boat, houseboat, marina or dock, I would recommend investing in dog-friendly dock products.  For example, my moorage had a dog ramp for easy access out of the water.  Another great addition was the “poop dock”, a “floating yard” complete with pee pole and AstroTurf for Deeg to “do his business”.  There are companies online that offer dock-savvy products like this.

Whenever the sun is shining, I think about our adventures on the water.  I’m not sure who misses it more,  me or Deeg.  Having a dock dog is a lot of work, but they make living waterside so much more fun!

I’ve found that many of my co-workers enjoy nothing more than spending a frosty night in the backcountry.  My biggest question for them has always been: where do you sleep?

After comparing their answers with the blizzard of information available online, I learned that there are, in fact, tons of options when constructing a snow dwelling.  Who knew?  After assessing the good, the bad and the ugly…here are my findings.  In conclusion, if ever I was to go winter camping, I think I’d like to try the Quinzee for the following reasons:

1.  I would feel like an Eskimo.

2. It seems pretty easy (even if time consuming) to build.

3. It seems like one of the warmer options.

4. The time spent constructing would keep my blood going, and keep me warm.

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Snow Cave

What is it? A dug out snow structure.

The Good: Some protection from the elements. FREE to build.

The Ugly: Time consuming.  Requires a shovel. Will get wet while constructing.

A Snow Cave

Quinzee

What is it? Something between an igloo and a snow cave.

The Good: It looks like you’re sleeping in a snow cone.  FREE to build.

The Ugly: Time consuming. Requires a shovel. Will get wet while constructing.

A Quinzee

Igloo

What is it?  House made out of snow bricks.

The Good: Relatively warm.  Bragging rights. FREE.

The Ugly: Time consuming. Requires a snow saw. Some skill required.

An Igloo

Adirondack Lean-To

What is it?  A three sided enclosure with a roof and a plank floor.  Looks like an unfinished log cabin.

The Good: Lots of room for people and supplies.  Can you say, “slumber party?”

The Ugly: You probably won’t be building one on your own, and the ones that are built for you are usually in high-use areas.  Can be very windy, and on the colder side.

Adirondack Lean-To

Tent

What is it?  A tent…but these are 4-season or mountaineering tents.

The Good: You can buy one of these at practically any outdoor store.  Quick and easy to set up.

The Ugly: Something extra to carry (though many of them are super lightweight).

A Winter Tent

Hammock

What is it: A frozen, nylon pea pod swinging between the trees.

The Good: Lightweight, easy to pitch, and doesn’t require level ground.  Rock yourself to sleep.  Serious bragging rights.

The Ugly: (Ok, we don’t actually know anyone who has braved this one, but we believe the disadvantages would be…) Only practical in wooded areas.  Not practical to do with your canine. Additional materials are needed to winterize the hammock.  Nowhere to store gear. Will freeze your butt off.

A Winterized Hammock

Hot Tenting

What is it: A tent or teepee with a compact, packable stove and pipe.

The Good: Oh so warm!  Stove seconds as a cooktop and dryer.  Can you say, “S’mores???”

The Ugly: Stove and fuel means you’re probably not packing this out to the backcountry.  Have to stay on top of keeping the stove going.

Hot Tenting

Bivy

What is it?  A step up from a sleeping bag on the snow.  It has a waterproof exterior and adds about 10 degrees to your sleeping bag’s overall temperature.

The Good: Lightweight, can be set up anywhere.

The Ugly: Not a good choice for claustrophobia; no where to put your gear (or your dog).

A Bivy Sack

Tarp

What is it?  A tarp that’s used to make an overhead shelter or version of a teepee/tent.

The Good: Lightweight, easy to set up, inexpensive.

The Ugly: Cold.  Reserved for the hardcore.

A Tarp

Fire Lookouts

What is it?  A room with a view.  Like spending the night in the tallest tree house ever built.

The Good: Panoramic views and a one-of-kind experience.

The Ugly: Reservations required.  Takes some pre-planning and a little cash.

A Fire Lookout

Yurt or Hut

What is it?  Translated as “felt house”, these dome-shaped structures make you really feel like you’re in a snow globe.

The Good: Communal, warm, dog-friendly–like a backcountry vacation!

The Ugly: Expensive–up to $65/person/night.

A Yurt

After recently taking a look at the FAIR campaign—a campaign raising awareness for giving dogs off-leash access to outdoor spaces—I wanted to know why anyone would be opposed to that.  Turns out, there are a variety of reasons, but if we take responsibility for dogs on trails where they are allowed, the likelihood of keeping those spaces available to dogs (and making more spaces available) is higher.  So, as reminder to those who frequent trails with their dog (and an education piece for those new to the trail) I have compiled a list of canine trail etiquette for your viewing pleasure:

1.     The only dogs that should be barking are your feet.  You wouldn’t let your dog run after cars and chase them on a walk—same rule applies to the trail.

2.     When the cat’s away, the mice will play.  The same rule applies to dogs.  What your dog is doing when he’s no longer in your view, is probably something you would not approve of—chasing wildlife, fishing through the trail garbage can, pummeling passerby’s, jumping in the water…Even good dogs are known to act out on occasion so it doesn’t hurt to keep them in your line of sight.

3.     Three things you should calmly pull your dog aside for and let pass: horses, people with children, and bikers.  The trail is not a good place to confront horses or children with their canine phobias; nor is it a good place to become a speed bump for a mountain biker.

4.     Pack the poop.  You don’t want to be the reason for the swearing-hiker-that-stepped-in-dog-poop’s bad day.  And I’m a big believer in dog poop karma—it’s bound to come back and haunt you.

5.     Do not blaze your own trails.  While dogs make great trail blazers, it can disturb nature, so keep them nearby and minimize the disturbance to nature.  “Leave only footprints, take only pictures.”

Ruff Wear makes a variety of canine gear for outdoor adventures.  But before the first design is drafted, the first stitch is sewn, or the first dog hair is shed on it, our design team determines the use, conditions, and activities for the product being designed.  In our pack, bed, and bowl lines, our goal has been to design products ideal for backpacking and camping, with features that complement each activity.

Since backpacking gear requires long hikes over many miles, weight and space were huge considerations in our design plan for backpacking gear.  The Highlands Bed™ and Bivy Bowl™ were designed to be lightweight and compact, while capacity was a huge factor in the Palisades Pack™, so your dog can carry it comfortably during multi-day adventures.

Conversely, camping usually allows for a greater number and size of supplies, providing the opportunity for increased sleeping space (our Mt. Bachelor Pad™ comes in a 3′ x 4′ large size), and larger multi-day food and water bowls, such as our Quencher™ bowls.

Here are our recommendations for the best canine camping and backpacking gear options.

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Backpacking Gear List

The Pack – Palisades Pack™

The Palisades Pack is our largest capacity pack; with enough room for a bowl, food, a Highlands Bed™, and 2L of water.  It comes with two, easy-pour water bladders, removable saddlebags for breaks and water crossings, and a compression system to help balance a large load.

The Bowl – Bivy Bowl™

The Bivy Bowl is single-walled, so it packs down into small spaces and weighs less than 2 oz.  It also shakes dry, making cleaning and drying a breeze when there’s no extra water to spare.

The Bed – Highlands Bed™

The Highlands Bed comes with its own stuff sack which compresses to fit inside any size Palisades Pack (total stuffed size is 12″ x 5″ [30 x 13cm] and 14 oz [400 g]).  The water-resistant, quick-drying shell doesn’t require the shelter of a tent, so Fido can enjoy the outdoors…outdoor!  The synthetic shell fabric was built to withstand tears from dog nails, sharp rocks, and campsite debris, and includes four stakeout loops to help keep it in place or for hanging out to dry.

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Camping Gear List

The Pack – Approach Pack™

The Approach Pack is large enough to fit all the essentials: water, leash, food, and bowl.

The Bowl – Quencher Cinch Top™ Collapsible Bowl

The Quencher bowl comes in a variety of sizes from 24 fl oz (.7L) to 2.6 qt (2.5L).  The cinch-top version is great for filling with kibble and cinching shut, while the open-top style is great for water.    The pyramid-style, tapered shape works well in the car, minimizing spillage.

The Bed – Mt. Bachelor Pad™

The Mt. Bachelor Pad rolls up into a convenient bed roll for carrying to and from the campsite.  It has 1″ of loft and up to 7″ x 19″ (18 x 48 cm) of bed space (size L) for your dog to “sprawl” out on.  It will hardly seem like your dog is “ruffing” it!

(customer-submitted photograph)

First, let’s start off by saying we believe dogs have a great ability to maintain a natural balance that keeps them clean despite their hygiene habits.

A dog’s fur and oils are amazingly resistant to dirt and stench without lots of grooming, and over-washing may actually strip a dog’s fur of natural oils.

That being said, there comes a time in every dog’s life when their smell is no longer welcome in the car or home, and one must bite the bullet and wash their dog.

How do you know the time has come?

Here are ten signs that a dog bath is in order:

1.  He’s growing a nice coat of mud.

2.  When your dog greets you with her smell before her bark.

3.  The skunk runs from the dog.

4.  He’s beginning to get rather manageable dread locks.

5. People begin asking what breed she is because they’ve never seen a brown (Pyreneese, American Eskimo, Husky…).

6.  Fleas have begun to hold Town Hall meetings on his back.

7.  She’s getting the cold shoulder at the dog park.

8.  He catches a whiff of something he wants to track down, and then realizes it’s his own stench.

9.  She actually has entire bushes embedded in her hair.

10. People call him in as an abandoned dog while still on-leash.